Antwerp was once a great center of the arts. It was in this Belgian city that Peter Paul Rubens had his home and his studio. He was also a collector of art and he displayed his art so that his students could be inspired as well as potential clients. This is where you will be visiting, this is the Rubenhuis.
Tickets are sold across the street from the house in a visitor center and you will also get your audio guide. You are going on a self guided tour. You cross the street and enter through the portico into the gardens of the house. The tour begins before you even enter the house. You can take pictures while you are outside in the garden but photography is not allowed inside the house. What you learn is that the garden pavilion does date from the time of the Master but the garden design has been recreated as it may have looked since no record exists.
In many ways Rubens house is typical of many 17th century Flemish homes. The kitchen has a open fireplace and there are tiles on the walls. There are wonderful paintings on display throughout the entire house. While you are in the dining room be on the lookout of a very fine self portrait. Unlike many other artists of the period there are very few self portraits of Rubens. His vision of himself is as a businessman rather than an artist, it was how he wanted to be perceived.
Rubens house was many things, it was a family home, it was an art an art school, a workshop, a museum and a pleasure gallery. Rubens was a collector and he modeled his on the great Italian collections of his time. He bought paintings that he liked but he also bought some works as an investment, he was after all an astute businessman. There was an inventory of his estate when he died and we have a very good idea of the type of works that he was collecting. Some of the oil sketches that he owned are very rare today because the original works are no longer extant. His home would have drawn many of his contemporaries to see his collection. He collection works on paper, canvas, wood and sculptures as well.
The house is filled with period furniture, none of it original to the house. After Rubens death his furniture was sold. What you will see that is original is the paintings of his grandparents. This is one of the amazing moments during a visit here, to see these portraits from the 16th century.
The tour finishes in the workshop, where there are several very fine paintings by Rubens and some of his very talented students. More than 2,500 works were produced in over 40 years in this workshop making Rubens one of the most prolific artists ever. There is a nice gift shop across the street near the ticket office.
A visit to Rubenhuis is a highlight of any visit to Antwerp. It isn't just about getting o know the man behind the artist but also about seeing how a family would have lived in 17th century Flanders.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Places to visit in France
Nestled towards the edge of the Loire region of central France, Bourges has around 100,000 residents and features many fine examples of Gothic, Renaissance and Classical buildings.
Originally a fortified Gallic city in the ancient kingdom of Bituriges, Bourges was to be destroyed and then rebuilt by the forces of Julius Caesar in 52 B.C. Known as Avaricum to the Romans, it's central position made it the logical choice to be the capital of the Province of Aquitaine. Recent archeology digs have discovered impressive remains of what Caesar himself described as one of the most beautiful towns in Gaul.
Acquired in 1100 by the French King, Philippe I, Bourges remained in royal control and was eventually made a duchy for Jean de France Duke of Berry in 1360. It was from this region that his successor, Charles the Dauphin set about reclaiming his kingdom from the English with the aid of the legendry Joan of Arc. Her personal mission may have ended at the stake in 1432 but she sparked a French resistance that within twenty years had swept the English occupation back to the port of Calais.
At the heart of the city, upon a hill, lies Saint Etienne Cathedral. This lofty and light filled place of worship took 60 years to build during the 12th and 13th Centuries. Inside, the deep colours of the stained glass windows portray Bible stories such as the Prodigal Son, the life of Mary, Christ's crucifixion, the Last Judgment and the Apocalypse. The global significance of the building was recognized in 1992 when it was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
Almost as impressive is the Palais de Jacques-Coeur, one of the most remarkable examples of fifteenth-century domestic architecture in France. Jacques Coeur was a prolific merchant trader who rose to wield considerable political power as the King's commissioner, before falling foul to those who envied him in 1451. Fortunately for posterity he had already completed his house which was unusually modern for its time, with latrines, a steam room, and a rationally planned design that predates the Renaissance.
Many of the city's historic treasures can be found housed in The Berry Museum, itself built in 1515. Their collection of Greek and Roman artifacts battle to attract tourists away from the fine pottery and ceramic display to be found at the Museum of Decorative Art, just a stone throw away.
Despite the stunning variety of architecture and its ancient past, Bourges is aware of the need to adapt to compete in the world today. Equipped with the latest technology, the Palais de Congres and Parc des Expositions provides the means to meet the city's ambitious objectives in business related tourism.
The buildings, both ancient and modern, may draw admiration but it is the natural beauty that has inspired national acclaim and Bourges is honoured to bear the title Flowering City. The pride is evident in the locals claim 'that although the place oozes history it breathes through its parks and gardens'. The formal Town Hall gardens give pleasant views of the Cathedral whilst the water gardens formed by the Yevre and Voiselle Rivers are perfect to boat around on lazy summer days.
With such scenery it was perhaps inevitable the city's most famous offspring would have an eye for beauty. Berthe Morisot (1841-95) was to become a member of the Impressionist circle of painters and by the age of twenty four she had exhibited in the esteemed Salon de Paris. Ten years later she joined other Impressionists such as Czanne, Degas and Monet to host their own exhibition at the studio of the photographer Nadar. Although a talented landscape artist she concentrated on elements of the domestic life she experienced on a daily basis and utilised her friends and family as models.
Today, although blessed with fine galleries, it is the art of music that draws crowds to town. Every spring, during the French holidays, the city invites established International stars and up and coming talent to perform. This six day festival, known as Les Printemps de Bourges, spreads through the whole of the city with ten concert halls, forty bars and fifteen restaurants willingly acting as hosts for the numerous artistes. Past attractions have included the varied melodies of Jerry Lee Lewis, Emmy Lou Harris, Charles Aznavour, The Ramones, The Cure, Joe Cocker, Def Leppard, and Sting.
Following close on the heels of this music extravaganza is another five week festival called the Ballades. Lasting for a full five weeks this is centred on the performing arts with theatrical events and street theatre monopolising many of the city's gardens and squares. The residents barely have time to recover from this contemporary mix when they are confronted with Festival Synthse, an electronic and acoustic music party during the first week of June.
Once the vibe music has faded and summer casts it's full warmth over the medieval streets, the local council endeavour to prolong each day by switching on special ambient lighting. Not only bathing the main buildings in subtle tones but also projecting dreamlike images of Gothic and Renaissance citizens onto available walls. This is complimented by yet another musical gathering, Un t Bourges, which has an eclectic line-up of free, outdoor performances of anything from local organ music to Chinese jazz. Without a doubt Bourges is a musical city rich in Roman ramparts, medieval streets and an abundance of greenery. Tucked away off the conventional tourist trail it is often bypassed by those not in the know, a veritable French idyll waiting to be discovered.
Originally a fortified Gallic city in the ancient kingdom of Bituriges, Bourges was to be destroyed and then rebuilt by the forces of Julius Caesar in 52 B.C. Known as Avaricum to the Romans, it's central position made it the logical choice to be the capital of the Province of Aquitaine. Recent archeology digs have discovered impressive remains of what Caesar himself described as one of the most beautiful towns in Gaul.
Acquired in 1100 by the French King, Philippe I, Bourges remained in royal control and was eventually made a duchy for Jean de France Duke of Berry in 1360. It was from this region that his successor, Charles the Dauphin set about reclaiming his kingdom from the English with the aid of the legendry Joan of Arc. Her personal mission may have ended at the stake in 1432 but she sparked a French resistance that within twenty years had swept the English occupation back to the port of Calais.
At the heart of the city, upon a hill, lies Saint Etienne Cathedral. This lofty and light filled place of worship took 60 years to build during the 12th and 13th Centuries. Inside, the deep colours of the stained glass windows portray Bible stories such as the Prodigal Son, the life of Mary, Christ's crucifixion, the Last Judgment and the Apocalypse. The global significance of the building was recognized in 1992 when it was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
Almost as impressive is the Palais de Jacques-Coeur, one of the most remarkable examples of fifteenth-century domestic architecture in France. Jacques Coeur was a prolific merchant trader who rose to wield considerable political power as the King's commissioner, before falling foul to those who envied him in 1451. Fortunately for posterity he had already completed his house which was unusually modern for its time, with latrines, a steam room, and a rationally planned design that predates the Renaissance.
Many of the city's historic treasures can be found housed in The Berry Museum, itself built in 1515. Their collection of Greek and Roman artifacts battle to attract tourists away from the fine pottery and ceramic display to be found at the Museum of Decorative Art, just a stone throw away.
Despite the stunning variety of architecture and its ancient past, Bourges is aware of the need to adapt to compete in the world today. Equipped with the latest technology, the Palais de Congres and Parc des Expositions provides the means to meet the city's ambitious objectives in business related tourism.
The buildings, both ancient and modern, may draw admiration but it is the natural beauty that has inspired national acclaim and Bourges is honoured to bear the title Flowering City. The pride is evident in the locals claim 'that although the place oozes history it breathes through its parks and gardens'. The formal Town Hall gardens give pleasant views of the Cathedral whilst the water gardens formed by the Yevre and Voiselle Rivers are perfect to boat around on lazy summer days.
With such scenery it was perhaps inevitable the city's most famous offspring would have an eye for beauty. Berthe Morisot (1841-95) was to become a member of the Impressionist circle of painters and by the age of twenty four she had exhibited in the esteemed Salon de Paris. Ten years later she joined other Impressionists such as Czanne, Degas and Monet to host their own exhibition at the studio of the photographer Nadar. Although a talented landscape artist she concentrated on elements of the domestic life she experienced on a daily basis and utilised her friends and family as models.
Today, although blessed with fine galleries, it is the art of music that draws crowds to town. Every spring, during the French holidays, the city invites established International stars and up and coming talent to perform. This six day festival, known as Les Printemps de Bourges, spreads through the whole of the city with ten concert halls, forty bars and fifteen restaurants willingly acting as hosts for the numerous artistes. Past attractions have included the varied melodies of Jerry Lee Lewis, Emmy Lou Harris, Charles Aznavour, The Ramones, The Cure, Joe Cocker, Def Leppard, and Sting.
Following close on the heels of this music extravaganza is another five week festival called the Ballades. Lasting for a full five weeks this is centred on the performing arts with theatrical events and street theatre monopolising many of the city's gardens and squares. The residents barely have time to recover from this contemporary mix when they are confronted with Festival Synthse, an electronic and acoustic music party during the first week of June.
Once the vibe music has faded and summer casts it's full warmth over the medieval streets, the local council endeavour to prolong each day by switching on special ambient lighting. Not only bathing the main buildings in subtle tones but also projecting dreamlike images of Gothic and Renaissance citizens onto available walls. This is complimented by yet another musical gathering, Un t Bourges, which has an eclectic line-up of free, outdoor performances of anything from local organ music to Chinese jazz. Without a doubt Bourges is a musical city rich in Roman ramparts, medieval streets and an abundance of greenery. Tucked away off the conventional tourist trail it is often bypassed by those not in the know, a veritable French idyll waiting to be discovered.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Planning a vacation to Oklahoma
Planning a vacation can be a wonderful experience. There is much to see and do in the Sooner State. The only problem with planning a trip to Oklahoma is narrowing down all the wonderful places to go. Thankfully, Oklahoma has devised a way to separate this great state into different areas so you can create a game plan for your vacation to Oklahoma. These different areas are known as "countries" and each of the countries offers something a little different than the other sections of Oklahoma.
Take a look at what is available to you in Arbuckle Country in south central Oklahoma. Home to the Arbuckle Mountains and Oklahoma's oldest state park, there is plenty to do for everyone. Museums, outdoor activities and beautiful scenery are just a few reasons to make a stop in Arbuckle Country. Home to great hotels and bed and breakfasts, you are sure to find a wonderful place to stay while in the area.
Give Frontier Country a try when vacationing in Oklahoma. Frontier Country is located in the heart of Oklahoma. The Greater Oklahoma City Metro area is in this area of Oklahoma. The capital, Oklahoma City, has many places for everyone to enjoy - no matter what they are interested in. Known as the "hot spot" of OKC, Bricktown is the place for shopping, dining and is home to the finest of hotels in the area. Less than an hour away, you will find Stillwater, the home to Eskimo Joe's. Guthrie, Oklahoma's first capital, is also in Frontier Country. Guthrie is a must for anyone who loves history and staying in the best bed and breakfasts in the country.
In the far southwest corner of Oklahoma, you will find Great Plains Country. The Wichita Mountains offer some of the best scenery in the state. Take a walk on the wild side and visit the towns where outlaws and bootleggers once roamed. Outdoor activities are abundant and, due to the mild winters, can be enjoyed year round.
Green Country is home to Tulsa and beautiful lakes. Visit interesting museums such as The Pawnee Bill Ranch and Museum, where you never know what you will or won't see. Bartlesville is home to the Kiddie Park, an amusement park designed just for children. Known as the "Foothills to the Ozarks," Green Country is a gorgeous area to spend a vacation.
In the far southeast corner of Oklahoma, you will find Kiamichi Country, known as "Little Dixie." Home to Oklahoma's only national forest, Kiamichi country is a sportsman's paradise. Charming bed and breakfasts are tucked away among the trees. Visit Olivet Cemetary in Hugo. Hugo has long been the winter home of circus performers and is now the final resting place to many of them.
Chase tumbleweeds and see the wild west in Red Carpet Country located in the panhandle of Oklahoma. Visit Black Mesa, the highest point in Oklahoma. Stop into Ponca City and learn about the E.W. Marland and his oil empire. The Twister Museum, based on the movie, is also located in Red Carpet Country as well as The Pioneer Woman Museum and The Ames Crater Museum.
No matter your interests, Oklahoma has something to offer everyone. Outdoor activities, amusement parks and museums are spread out all over the state for everyone's enjoyment. Take some time to discover Oklahoma and see what makes the Sooner State the vacation spot for everyone.
Take a look at what is available to you in Arbuckle Country in south central Oklahoma. Home to the Arbuckle Mountains and Oklahoma's oldest state park, there is plenty to do for everyone. Museums, outdoor activities and beautiful scenery are just a few reasons to make a stop in Arbuckle Country. Home to great hotels and bed and breakfasts, you are sure to find a wonderful place to stay while in the area.
Give Frontier Country a try when vacationing in Oklahoma. Frontier Country is located in the heart of Oklahoma. The Greater Oklahoma City Metro area is in this area of Oklahoma. The capital, Oklahoma City, has many places for everyone to enjoy - no matter what they are interested in. Known as the "hot spot" of OKC, Bricktown is the place for shopping, dining and is home to the finest of hotels in the area. Less than an hour away, you will find Stillwater, the home to Eskimo Joe's. Guthrie, Oklahoma's first capital, is also in Frontier Country. Guthrie is a must for anyone who loves history and staying in the best bed and breakfasts in the country.
In the far southwest corner of Oklahoma, you will find Great Plains Country. The Wichita Mountains offer some of the best scenery in the state. Take a walk on the wild side and visit the towns where outlaws and bootleggers once roamed. Outdoor activities are abundant and, due to the mild winters, can be enjoyed year round.
Green Country is home to Tulsa and beautiful lakes. Visit interesting museums such as The Pawnee Bill Ranch and Museum, where you never know what you will or won't see. Bartlesville is home to the Kiddie Park, an amusement park designed just for children. Known as the "Foothills to the Ozarks," Green Country is a gorgeous area to spend a vacation.
In the far southeast corner of Oklahoma, you will find Kiamichi Country, known as "Little Dixie." Home to Oklahoma's only national forest, Kiamichi country is a sportsman's paradise. Charming bed and breakfasts are tucked away among the trees. Visit Olivet Cemetary in Hugo. Hugo has long been the winter home of circus performers and is now the final resting place to many of them.
Chase tumbleweeds and see the wild west in Red Carpet Country located in the panhandle of Oklahoma. Visit Black Mesa, the highest point in Oklahoma. Stop into Ponca City and learn about the E.W. Marland and his oil empire. The Twister Museum, based on the movie, is also located in Red Carpet Country as well as The Pioneer Woman Museum and The Ames Crater Museum.
No matter your interests, Oklahoma has something to offer everyone. Outdoor activities, amusement parks and museums are spread out all over the state for everyone's enjoyment. Take some time to discover Oklahoma and see what makes the Sooner State the vacation spot for everyone.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Budget Vacations in Cancun, Mexico
Cancun, Mexico and Baja especially, is one of the most popular travel destinations in the world. Visiting a popular destination can be expensive; between lodging, travel, and food, the trip can quickly spiral out of control. The key to seeing Baja on a budget is to plan in advance.
Some vacationers might consider an all inclusive vacation package for their trip. The Occidental Grand, and Viva Wyndham both offer all inclusive package deals to Cancun for less than $1,500 per person, and free for children under the age of 12. The deals include travel arrangements to Cancun from several destinations across the United States, comfortable lodging, and often other amenities. If you begin planning in advance, and discover that your Cancun budget is significantly higher than an all inclusive package, you might want to consider switching.
To save money, you should bring as much as possible from home, just as you would on any other beach vacation. That means bringing snorkeling equipment, suntan lotions, bathing suits, sunglasses, and anything else you can think of. Cancun is a resort area, and has a high mark up on those little things that people tend to forget at home.
Accommodations in Cancun can be a budget buster for many travelers. Hotels, especially luxury resorts, are often too expensive for the traveler with an eye on budget. Instead think about booking a hotel away from the beach. Simply skipping the oceanfront view can save you a lot of money. Another way to save money is by renting a private home in Cancun. You can save money by eating at home, instead of spending too much money on overpriced expensive restaurant meals.
Another great way to save money in Cancun is to do what the locals do. Prior to starting off, frequent message boards or websites about the area, and ask for recommendations. You may find cheaper grocery stores, and smaller owner operated restaurants that are much less expensive than the many stores that cater to tourists.
Before leaving, you may want to invest in a Cancun Travel Guide. Frommer's is the ultimate guide for travelers, and to save money you can pick up a used copy at one of your local bookstores, often for less than $10. A travel guide can point you in directions that you never thought of, by showcasing off the beaten path locations, and discounted times to visit major attractions.
By using only a few of these tips, you can have an enjoyable, and budget friendly trip to Cancun.
Some vacationers might consider an all inclusive vacation package for their trip. The Occidental Grand, and Viva Wyndham both offer all inclusive package deals to Cancun for less than $1,500 per person, and free for children under the age of 12. The deals include travel arrangements to Cancun from several destinations across the United States, comfortable lodging, and often other amenities. If you begin planning in advance, and discover that your Cancun budget is significantly higher than an all inclusive package, you might want to consider switching.
To save money, you should bring as much as possible from home, just as you would on any other beach vacation. That means bringing snorkeling equipment, suntan lotions, bathing suits, sunglasses, and anything else you can think of. Cancun is a resort area, and has a high mark up on those little things that people tend to forget at home.
Accommodations in Cancun can be a budget buster for many travelers. Hotels, especially luxury resorts, are often too expensive for the traveler with an eye on budget. Instead think about booking a hotel away from the beach. Simply skipping the oceanfront view can save you a lot of money. Another way to save money is by renting a private home in Cancun. You can save money by eating at home, instead of spending too much money on overpriced expensive restaurant meals.
Another great way to save money in Cancun is to do what the locals do. Prior to starting off, frequent message boards or websites about the area, and ask for recommendations. You may find cheaper grocery stores, and smaller owner operated restaurants that are much less expensive than the many stores that cater to tourists.
Before leaving, you may want to invest in a Cancun Travel Guide. Frommer's is the ultimate guide for travelers, and to save money you can pick up a used copy at one of your local bookstores, often for less than $10. A travel guide can point you in directions that you never thought of, by showcasing off the beaten path locations, and discounted times to visit major attractions.
By using only a few of these tips, you can have an enjoyable, and budget friendly trip to Cancun.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Skiing in Vale Nevado
Imagine the vast expanse of the snow covered Alps, and you are skiing down a slope without a care in the world. You can make this a reality by visiting the famous ski resort, Valle Nevado, which has the highest degree of modern conveniences in the whole of South America. A few French businessmen, back in 1988, wanted to emulate European ski resorts, and this enchanting ski resort was founded. It is a French designed resort (of course!), and covers about 800 hectares of skiing area. The facilities and terrain have been constantly upgraded and the result is a varied terrain that makes skiing so interesting, and also you can go snow boarding. Private Heli-skiing is also offered in the adjacent valleys. The terrain is so perfect for skiing, that this resort was featured in an Xbox video-game.
There is a snow park in the resort where you can indulge in extreme ski sports, as it has all the proper terrain for jumps and free style. The park is 100 meters long you can go snowboarding on two trails, the Half Pipe and Border Cross. The resort has eight lifts in total, including a hi-speed, detachable quad, which is the only one in South America. If you are new to skiing you need not worry as you will find a lot of instructors in this place. The best season for skiing in this resort is from June to October, when you will find the best fresh powder snow. The powder here will be deep and dry and is supposed to last for days. This resort lies 46 kilometers east of Santiago in Chile. If you are driving, it is mandatory to carry chains for your vehicle tyres, and you can take the Farellones route, and then the detour at the Valle Nevado sign. The resort is about 14 kilometers from here, through some very torturous 20 hairpin bends. From Santiago it usually takes around two to three hours to reach the resort.
For accommodation there are three good hotels. The Valle Nevado Hotel is five star, and has 53 spacious rooms, each with a breathtaking view of the mountains. This is a place of luxury and convenience, and has a fully equipped fitness center. Tres Puntas Hotel has three star accommodation, and has 91 rooms. It is about 492 meters away from the ski tracks, and is one of the cheapest staying options available. Puetra Del Sol Hotel is a four star category hotel with 124 rooms, and is preferred by most families that come to Valle Nevado.
Valle Nevado is part of a three-valley region, and is a great spot to enjoy nature and mountain views. It has a constant stream of international tourists all through the main season. The place gives you a feeling of vastness, with its huge wide-open slopes. Even if you are not a skier you can still take the lifts, which are supposed to be the highest lift service in the southern hemisphere, and enjoy the view of the terrain from those dizzying heights.
There is a snow park in the resort where you can indulge in extreme ski sports, as it has all the proper terrain for jumps and free style. The park is 100 meters long you can go snowboarding on two trails, the Half Pipe and Border Cross. The resort has eight lifts in total, including a hi-speed, detachable quad, which is the only one in South America. If you are new to skiing you need not worry as you will find a lot of instructors in this place. The best season for skiing in this resort is from June to October, when you will find the best fresh powder snow. The powder here will be deep and dry and is supposed to last for days. This resort lies 46 kilometers east of Santiago in Chile. If you are driving, it is mandatory to carry chains for your vehicle tyres, and you can take the Farellones route, and then the detour at the Valle Nevado sign. The resort is about 14 kilometers from here, through some very torturous 20 hairpin bends. From Santiago it usually takes around two to three hours to reach the resort.
For accommodation there are three good hotels. The Valle Nevado Hotel is five star, and has 53 spacious rooms, each with a breathtaking view of the mountains. This is a place of luxury and convenience, and has a fully equipped fitness center. Tres Puntas Hotel has three star accommodation, and has 91 rooms. It is about 492 meters away from the ski tracks, and is one of the cheapest staying options available. Puetra Del Sol Hotel is a four star category hotel with 124 rooms, and is preferred by most families that come to Valle Nevado.
Valle Nevado is part of a three-valley region, and is a great spot to enjoy nature and mountain views. It has a constant stream of international tourists all through the main season. The place gives you a feeling of vastness, with its huge wide-open slopes. Even if you are not a skier you can still take the lifts, which are supposed to be the highest lift service in the southern hemisphere, and enjoy the view of the terrain from those dizzying heights.
Travel experiences Maui, Hawaii, USA
Zigzagging up the long road to the Haleakala Crater was anything but easy on someone with mild equilibrium problems, but waking up at 4:00 a.m. for the ride up to the summit was well worth all the butterflies in my empty stomach. When we reached the summit to see the sunrise, the landscape appeared as though we might just be on someone else's planet.
Maui, the Valley Isle, is a playground that offers an almost never-ending amount of activities to enjoy both on and off land. Three of my cousins and I started our trip by driving to see the sunrise. Though I didn't count the switchbacks on that snaking road, there were apparently 33 of them on the way up to the 10,023 foot high summit. We arrived behind numerous other early risers, but the cloud cover prevented us from seeing the golden orb emerge. The Haleakala National Park area includes marked trails and offers several photo opportunities once the sun actually peeks through. The barren crater itself is considered large enough to hold all of Manhattan.
Kula Lodge, on Haleakala Hwy., was a refreshing place to warm up after the cold temperature that was still in our bones from our journey to the top of Maui. The Kula Market, next door to the lodge, sells excellent preserves, among other treasures such as the wonderful ginger candies that soothed my stomach for the rest of our trip.
We stayed a private dwelling in the quaint upcountry area of Kula, home to ranch houses and flower farms, and much quieter and cooler than the beach resort areas of the island. We shopped in the muggy heat at the Maui Swap Meet at Kahului. The swap meet, on Hwy 350 off Puunene Ave. next to the Kahului Post Office, runs from 7 a.m. until 12 p.m. on Saturdays. Like many markets, it sells souvenirs, crafts, arts, and flowers. We found some excellent fresh produce to put in the cooler for our evening meal - corn on the cob, green beans, liliquoi, star fruit, dragon fruit, bananas, and guavas. Then we were off to Kama'ole III Beach.
The following day's rain didn't stop us from leaving our cozy digs. We enjoyed a glorious day at the Maui Ocean Center, but we didn't get to see "Nemo". The aquarium is home to native Hawaiian fish only, such as the humuhumunukunukuapua'a, Hawaii's state fish. The name, that is almost longer than the fish itself means "stitched together with a nose like a pig." The translation explains the length of the Hawaiian word.
The Ocean Center's shark tank was mesmerizing to the two of us in our group that are highly fascinated with the beautiful predators. A diver entered the tank to hand feed a majestic spotted eagle ray that is quite a character, impatiently awaiting the crunchy shellfish. The peaceful theatre area was an enjoyable way to watch the tranquil marine life.
Mouth watering food was served to us at the Seascape Ma'alaea Restaurant at the center. A couple of us dined on the Seascape Salad: crab claw, seared Pacific yellow-fin tuna, bay shrimp, bay scallops, and tomatoes on Kula greens. We watched the Pride of Maui catamaran pull in as waves crashed over the rocks in the harbor.
By Monday, the rain had ceased, and we headed to Lahaina, a former whaler's village that is now a touristy boardwalk area lined with souvenir shops, restaurants, jewelry stores, and some amazing art galleries. The Christian R. Lassen Galleries are a must see as his marine art is so vivid that it practically speaks to you of his love for the environment.
At the Courthouse Building, stands one of the largest banyan trees in the world. This behemoth of arboreal wonder, planted in 1873 by Maui Sheriff William O. Smith, is now 50 feet tall, has 12 major trunks, and is a sight to behold. We ate lunch at a restaurant that overlooked the courtyard, and were entertained by the interesting spectacle of a man spouting bastardized versions of scripture from the Bible.
We took Route 30 back home, a route where locals warn tourists to make sure to keep an eye on the winding road and not the humpback whales that breech or spout in the water. Surfers were speckled along the shoreline trying to catch the last of the waves before heading out of the water for the day. We awoke eary the next day, though waking up early was not actually difficult on any morning that we spent on Maui, where there is apparently a feral chicken issue. Each morning, before the sun even had a chance to peek through the clouds, we all awoke to the cock-a-doodle-doos of the roosters. We drove to 13 Crossings on West Maui, past mile marker 7 on Hwy 340, to go for a hike. We entered the jungle area and as the name suggests, traversed the MakaMakaole Stream thirteen times before coming to a waterfall, about an hour later. The foliage included a small bamboo forest, some beautiful tropical flowers, falling guavas, and the odd chameleon.
After our exhilarating hike, we continued our drive up the very curvy, sometimes one-way road that is Hwy 340. Though the view is incredible, the road itself is not for the faint of heart. We had some very near encounters with other vehicles, which involved someone having to back up to a wider spot - the closer to the top that we got. Some car rental companies do not honour the insurance policies of drivers who venture up this treacherous road with rented vehicles.
Snorkelling in Maui was among the best I have ever experienced. We found an excellent beach in the Wailea area that offered somewhat gentle waves, and a reef that contained numerous tropical fish - and sea turtles! As I am not a great swimmer, I bought a pool noodle flotation device so that I could stay afloat without panicking. We saw several species of fish that we were able to identify from our day at the Maui Ocean Center. When the waves of this beach weren't pummeling us into the sand because we had entered at the wrong time, it was offering us the excellent opportunity to practice our newly acquired body surfing skills.
Our five-hour day on the Pride of Maui was an experience of a lifetime. The fact that it is a catamaran made the 9 mile ride to the Molokini Crater quiet smooth. Facing the leeward side of Maui, the crater area offers 150 - 200 foot viewing - the best in the Hawai'ian Islands. We saw an almost endless array of tropical fish, and a five foot white tipped reef shark even made an appearance in our video that we had paid for before entering the water!
After an on board barbequed lunch, we headed over to Turtle Town - off the shore of Wailea, near our favorite beach. We tried our hand at Snuba - a combination of snorkeling and scuba, for which we did not require certification. The giant sea turtles were curious, fascinating creatures that gracefully swam in the gentle waters and gradually made their way to the surface for a breath of air. One such curious soul spent some time at the surface checking out we humans, who by now where below water level, before swimming off.
For our last day on Maui we fittingly ended at our favorite beach to soak up some more sunshine and frolic in the waves. We watched the spouting of the humpback whales swimming by the Molokini Crater. We witnessed a casual wedding take place early in the afternnoon, then watched as the setting sun became the backdrop for photos of a formal wedding couple...a picture postcard ending to a trip to be remembered forever.
Maui, the Valley Isle, is a playground that offers an almost never-ending amount of activities to enjoy both on and off land. Three of my cousins and I started our trip by driving to see the sunrise. Though I didn't count the switchbacks on that snaking road, there were apparently 33 of them on the way up to the 10,023 foot high summit. We arrived behind numerous other early risers, but the cloud cover prevented us from seeing the golden orb emerge. The Haleakala National Park area includes marked trails and offers several photo opportunities once the sun actually peeks through. The barren crater itself is considered large enough to hold all of Manhattan.
Kula Lodge, on Haleakala Hwy., was a refreshing place to warm up after the cold temperature that was still in our bones from our journey to the top of Maui. The Kula Market, next door to the lodge, sells excellent preserves, among other treasures such as the wonderful ginger candies that soothed my stomach for the rest of our trip.
We stayed a private dwelling in the quaint upcountry area of Kula, home to ranch houses and flower farms, and much quieter and cooler than the beach resort areas of the island. We shopped in the muggy heat at the Maui Swap Meet at Kahului. The swap meet, on Hwy 350 off Puunene Ave. next to the Kahului Post Office, runs from 7 a.m. until 12 p.m. on Saturdays. Like many markets, it sells souvenirs, crafts, arts, and flowers. We found some excellent fresh produce to put in the cooler for our evening meal - corn on the cob, green beans, liliquoi, star fruit, dragon fruit, bananas, and guavas. Then we were off to Kama'ole III Beach.
The following day's rain didn't stop us from leaving our cozy digs. We enjoyed a glorious day at the Maui Ocean Center, but we didn't get to see "Nemo". The aquarium is home to native Hawaiian fish only, such as the humuhumunukunukuapua'a, Hawaii's state fish. The name, that is almost longer than the fish itself means "stitched together with a nose like a pig." The translation explains the length of the Hawaiian word.
The Ocean Center's shark tank was mesmerizing to the two of us in our group that are highly fascinated with the beautiful predators. A diver entered the tank to hand feed a majestic spotted eagle ray that is quite a character, impatiently awaiting the crunchy shellfish. The peaceful theatre area was an enjoyable way to watch the tranquil marine life.
Mouth watering food was served to us at the Seascape Ma'alaea Restaurant at the center. A couple of us dined on the Seascape Salad: crab claw, seared Pacific yellow-fin tuna, bay shrimp, bay scallops, and tomatoes on Kula greens. We watched the Pride of Maui catamaran pull in as waves crashed over the rocks in the harbor.
By Monday, the rain had ceased, and we headed to Lahaina, a former whaler's village that is now a touristy boardwalk area lined with souvenir shops, restaurants, jewelry stores, and some amazing art galleries. The Christian R. Lassen Galleries are a must see as his marine art is so vivid that it practically speaks to you of his love for the environment.
At the Courthouse Building, stands one of the largest banyan trees in the world. This behemoth of arboreal wonder, planted in 1873 by Maui Sheriff William O. Smith, is now 50 feet tall, has 12 major trunks, and is a sight to behold. We ate lunch at a restaurant that overlooked the courtyard, and were entertained by the interesting spectacle of a man spouting bastardized versions of scripture from the Bible.
We took Route 30 back home, a route where locals warn tourists to make sure to keep an eye on the winding road and not the humpback whales that breech or spout in the water. Surfers were speckled along the shoreline trying to catch the last of the waves before heading out of the water for the day. We awoke eary the next day, though waking up early was not actually difficult on any morning that we spent on Maui, where there is apparently a feral chicken issue. Each morning, before the sun even had a chance to peek through the clouds, we all awoke to the cock-a-doodle-doos of the roosters. We drove to 13 Crossings on West Maui, past mile marker 7 on Hwy 340, to go for a hike. We entered the jungle area and as the name suggests, traversed the MakaMakaole Stream thirteen times before coming to a waterfall, about an hour later. The foliage included a small bamboo forest, some beautiful tropical flowers, falling guavas, and the odd chameleon.
After our exhilarating hike, we continued our drive up the very curvy, sometimes one-way road that is Hwy 340. Though the view is incredible, the road itself is not for the faint of heart. We had some very near encounters with other vehicles, which involved someone having to back up to a wider spot - the closer to the top that we got. Some car rental companies do not honour the insurance policies of drivers who venture up this treacherous road with rented vehicles.
Snorkelling in Maui was among the best I have ever experienced. We found an excellent beach in the Wailea area that offered somewhat gentle waves, and a reef that contained numerous tropical fish - and sea turtles! As I am not a great swimmer, I bought a pool noodle flotation device so that I could stay afloat without panicking. We saw several species of fish that we were able to identify from our day at the Maui Ocean Center. When the waves of this beach weren't pummeling us into the sand because we had entered at the wrong time, it was offering us the excellent opportunity to practice our newly acquired body surfing skills.
Our five-hour day on the Pride of Maui was an experience of a lifetime. The fact that it is a catamaran made the 9 mile ride to the Molokini Crater quiet smooth. Facing the leeward side of Maui, the crater area offers 150 - 200 foot viewing - the best in the Hawai'ian Islands. We saw an almost endless array of tropical fish, and a five foot white tipped reef shark even made an appearance in our video that we had paid for before entering the water!
After an on board barbequed lunch, we headed over to Turtle Town - off the shore of Wailea, near our favorite beach. We tried our hand at Snuba - a combination of snorkeling and scuba, for which we did not require certification. The giant sea turtles were curious, fascinating creatures that gracefully swam in the gentle waters and gradually made their way to the surface for a breath of air. One such curious soul spent some time at the surface checking out we humans, who by now where below water level, before swimming off.
For our last day on Maui we fittingly ended at our favorite beach to soak up some more sunshine and frolic in the waves. We watched the spouting of the humpback whales swimming by the Molokini Crater. We witnessed a casual wedding take place early in the afternnoon, then watched as the setting sun became the backdrop for photos of a formal wedding couple...a picture postcard ending to a trip to be remembered forever.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Roadtrip from Guyana to Brazil
Guyana, The Land of Many Waters, is a country about the size of England with less than the population of my local town. The result? Around 70% of the country being untouched by humans, creating a rich and diverse area of some of the most spectacular rain forest still alive today. And no, it's not in Africa but near the top end of South America.
The rain forest is one of the biggest attractions for tourism to the country and rightly so. It's a lush, noisy, steamy location that I find irresistible. I'm going to tell you about a little trip a mate and I took to get from the capital of Georgetown right down to the Brazilian border. It was a great journey and a glimpse into the jungle. I took subsequent trips into that dense green home but this was my first adventure.
To get through to the Brazilian border can be done in a number of different ways. You could fly (too easy), drive a motorbike (too strenuous), cycle (too crazy) or get a seat on one of the logging trucks that chundered down the mud paths. We opted for a variation on the latter. Not a truck, but a seriously maxed out SUV that carried precious goods and people back and forth.
The first part of the trip involved making phone calls to find out when one of these SUVs was heading off. I left my name and number with a couple of likely candidates and waited to see if any would get back to me. About 9pm at night we were settling down to a nice cool bottle of Banks beer when the phone rang. Could we be ready in 15 minutes? Looking at that frosty glass of beer we collectively sighed and said no worries. One bottle of beer downed, some clothes jammed hastily in a bag, we were off. First stop was at KFC. Now normally I wouldn't dream of eating here but the beer had loosened my morals and we got a big bucket of chicken each. These buckets saved our lives. Stupidly, we had only packed a couple of bottles of water and some cheese sandwiches which, as it turned out, wouldn't have been enough.
The first couple of hours was along nice clean tarmacked roads. Progress was good and I felt myself getting sleepy. A sudden turn off the road soon woke me up and so started the journey. We bounced and bobbed along a dirt track before suddenly plunging into thick woods. The temperature rose dramatically and the windows started steaming up. The noise rose in proportion to heat - who would have imagined a few thousand insects working together could create such a racket? I peered through the steamy windows and kept a look out for Tarzan swinging through the trees. Night quickly overtook us and the jungle was almost pitch black. Our driver stopped at a small shelter and decided that this would be a good place to sleep for the night. He curled himself up on a wooden bench and promptly fell asleep. My friend and I chatted for awhile and then tried to get a few hours of sleep ourselves. Sleeping overnight wasn't actually part of our plan so neither of us had a mosquito net so we had to settle with smothering ourselves with some heavy duty insect repellent. This kept the mossies away but our severely tingling skin kept us both awake. We alternated between having listless conversations, listening to the cacophony of the jungle and catching snatches of sleep.
After an eternity of scratching at insects our driver woke up, scratched and stretched before heading off into the jungle. "Nature" he called out and we decided it a good plan to leave him to it. 10 minutes of nature later we were off again after a breakfast of congealed chicken bits. The sun started to rise and the jungle took on a whole new meaning. My imagination got the better of me and I strained my eyes trying to spot all the animals I'd read about before coming. I spotted nothing but jungle and water. Water, and then more water. The rains of the previous days had turned the roads into rivers and soon the SUV was ploughing through the water like a mini submarine. The driver started looking a bit distracted and eventually admitted to us that we had gone wrong somewhere. We backtracked and took another path, or river. The SUV was equipped with a small winch at the front and I discovered that this was to pull us out of the unseen ruts caused by logging trucks. Every time we got stuck, the driver would have to climb out of his window and wade through to a nearby tree that looked strong enough to pull us out. Progress was slow and I started thinking to ration the chicken out a bit more sparsely. It was probably my water logged mind playing tricks on me but I'm sure I started spotting animals walking two by two on their way to the Arc.
We eventually reached drier land and the driver put the pedal to the metal in order to make up lost time, stopping only once to pull out a great behemoth of a truck that had got itself wedged into its own rut. I used the opportunity to have some Nature myself but got distracted by a large and shiny spider making its way directly towards me and my own little river. I hastily got back to the safety of the now decidedly chickeny smelling SUV and we were off again.
We hurtled along through the jungle for a bit longer before bursting out onto the savannas. It was so odd to be out in the open after being enclosed by the canopy for a day or so. Our eyes squinted as they adjusted to the extra sunlight and we raced along dry and dusty roads, obviously rain free. We overtook some local Amerindians on their way home, some unknown creature over one of their shoulders sporting an arrow or two. "Wild meat" our driver explained to us, which basically can mean anything wild that moves.
After the high drama of the jungle, we quickly got bored of the endless flats of the savanna. There was very little to see other than shrubs and low trees so when we reached the border town of Lethem it was with a sigh of relief. We got out, stretched and found a place to stay the night. Choices involved one guest house or the police station. Luckily for us the guest house had space (but shower involved standing outside under a big bucket). After being coped up in the SUV for almost 2 or 3 days it seemed odd to be out and I felt oddly exposed. We shook hands and said goodbye to our driver. Despite not speaking much, I felt that we were all really close after the journey and it felt a little sad to see him go.
The next day it was a quick pontoon over to Brazil and we were in a new country, open for new adventures and off we went to explore. We hitched a lift from a passing truck and it was as easy as that.
After a couple of weeks exploring the dusty towns of North Brazil we were back in Lethem. We decided to fly back.
The rain forest is one of the biggest attractions for tourism to the country and rightly so. It's a lush, noisy, steamy location that I find irresistible. I'm going to tell you about a little trip a mate and I took to get from the capital of Georgetown right down to the Brazilian border. It was a great journey and a glimpse into the jungle. I took subsequent trips into that dense green home but this was my first adventure.
To get through to the Brazilian border can be done in a number of different ways. You could fly (too easy), drive a motorbike (too strenuous), cycle (too crazy) or get a seat on one of the logging trucks that chundered down the mud paths. We opted for a variation on the latter. Not a truck, but a seriously maxed out SUV that carried precious goods and people back and forth.
The first part of the trip involved making phone calls to find out when one of these SUVs was heading off. I left my name and number with a couple of likely candidates and waited to see if any would get back to me. About 9pm at night we were settling down to a nice cool bottle of Banks beer when the phone rang. Could we be ready in 15 minutes? Looking at that frosty glass of beer we collectively sighed and said no worries. One bottle of beer downed, some clothes jammed hastily in a bag, we were off. First stop was at KFC. Now normally I wouldn't dream of eating here but the beer had loosened my morals and we got a big bucket of chicken each. These buckets saved our lives. Stupidly, we had only packed a couple of bottles of water and some cheese sandwiches which, as it turned out, wouldn't have been enough.
The first couple of hours was along nice clean tarmacked roads. Progress was good and I felt myself getting sleepy. A sudden turn off the road soon woke me up and so started the journey. We bounced and bobbed along a dirt track before suddenly plunging into thick woods. The temperature rose dramatically and the windows started steaming up. The noise rose in proportion to heat - who would have imagined a few thousand insects working together could create such a racket? I peered through the steamy windows and kept a look out for Tarzan swinging through the trees. Night quickly overtook us and the jungle was almost pitch black. Our driver stopped at a small shelter and decided that this would be a good place to sleep for the night. He curled himself up on a wooden bench and promptly fell asleep. My friend and I chatted for awhile and then tried to get a few hours of sleep ourselves. Sleeping overnight wasn't actually part of our plan so neither of us had a mosquito net so we had to settle with smothering ourselves with some heavy duty insect repellent. This kept the mossies away but our severely tingling skin kept us both awake. We alternated between having listless conversations, listening to the cacophony of the jungle and catching snatches of sleep.
After an eternity of scratching at insects our driver woke up, scratched and stretched before heading off into the jungle. "Nature" he called out and we decided it a good plan to leave him to it. 10 minutes of nature later we were off again after a breakfast of congealed chicken bits. The sun started to rise and the jungle took on a whole new meaning. My imagination got the better of me and I strained my eyes trying to spot all the animals I'd read about before coming. I spotted nothing but jungle and water. Water, and then more water. The rains of the previous days had turned the roads into rivers and soon the SUV was ploughing through the water like a mini submarine. The driver started looking a bit distracted and eventually admitted to us that we had gone wrong somewhere. We backtracked and took another path, or river. The SUV was equipped with a small winch at the front and I discovered that this was to pull us out of the unseen ruts caused by logging trucks. Every time we got stuck, the driver would have to climb out of his window and wade through to a nearby tree that looked strong enough to pull us out. Progress was slow and I started thinking to ration the chicken out a bit more sparsely. It was probably my water logged mind playing tricks on me but I'm sure I started spotting animals walking two by two on their way to the Arc.
We eventually reached drier land and the driver put the pedal to the metal in order to make up lost time, stopping only once to pull out a great behemoth of a truck that had got itself wedged into its own rut. I used the opportunity to have some Nature myself but got distracted by a large and shiny spider making its way directly towards me and my own little river. I hastily got back to the safety of the now decidedly chickeny smelling SUV and we were off again.
We hurtled along through the jungle for a bit longer before bursting out onto the savannas. It was so odd to be out in the open after being enclosed by the canopy for a day or so. Our eyes squinted as they adjusted to the extra sunlight and we raced along dry and dusty roads, obviously rain free. We overtook some local Amerindians on their way home, some unknown creature over one of their shoulders sporting an arrow or two. "Wild meat" our driver explained to us, which basically can mean anything wild that moves.
After the high drama of the jungle, we quickly got bored of the endless flats of the savanna. There was very little to see other than shrubs and low trees so when we reached the border town of Lethem it was with a sigh of relief. We got out, stretched and found a place to stay the night. Choices involved one guest house or the police station. Luckily for us the guest house had space (but shower involved standing outside under a big bucket). After being coped up in the SUV for almost 2 or 3 days it seemed odd to be out and I felt oddly exposed. We shook hands and said goodbye to our driver. Despite not speaking much, I felt that we were all really close after the journey and it felt a little sad to see him go.
The next day it was a quick pontoon over to Brazil and we were in a new country, open for new adventures and off we went to explore. We hitched a lift from a passing truck and it was as easy as that.
After a couple of weeks exploring the dusty towns of North Brazil we were back in Lethem. We decided to fly back.
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